Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and tourists equally praising its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, Unesco designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – including it in a prestigious roster of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this title, it joins a global network of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "demonstrates its profound gastronomic legacy and lively food ecosystem," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this venerable city is little surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has perennially shaped its soul: an profound love for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a continued conversation from waking up until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, perfected, and taken to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases fresh harvests but also gives the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on every corner, there are small establishments and stalls – lesser-known delights that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is intricate and involved. The cook hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though say that their younger generation do not want to take up the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will inspire more people around the world to discover these tales and visit the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
